GREAT OCEAN WALK – 29-30 March 2026
So, we’re now into days 5 and 6 and the idea of doing the whole 104k of the walk (I think the others had that goal) has well and truly gone by the wayside. It’s now about doing sections that aren’t as challenging and making sure we see the “highlights”. And, the 5th day will see us moving to Johanna Seaside Farm House – a “must stay” if you’re in the area.
Day 5 – 29 March – Aire River to Johanna Beach
The Guide: “fine coastal views … the track winds its way through eucalypt woodland and grass trees”. In my opinion, the forest between Castle Cove and Johanna Beach was one of the highlights of the walk!
Because we’d stopped at Aire River yesterday (the plan was to walk all the way to Johanna Beach), Mark from Walk91 suggested that today we do the section we missed today, there were a few “interesting things” on this section so we all agreed.
We were up earlier than needed the morning we were checking out of Bimni Park so I wandered around looking for a koala and what do you know, quite high up there was one having a nap.
We were dropped at the Aire River and started on the track – and immediately we were climbing stairs! A lot of them.
At the top of the stairs we came across one of the GOW shelters for the independent walkers, at least there is shelter if it’s raining!
Most of the campsites for the campers were down in the “camping area” but this one was the only one up high that I saw, wasn’t too bad, a little compacted but not enough grass for my liking LOL.
A little further on the track and we were able to get a peek of Aire River, and across on that bluff would have been the lookout.
One of the few sections of coastal vegetation where you could see the ocean in the distance.
On this section of the walk there were more opportunities to see the views, this one is looking back and the bluff in the distance is where the Rainbow Falls would have been.
Another view down onto yet another beach.
Another section of track with steps probably going down to a beach.
Another beach.
This section of the track instead of walking at the top of the cliff, we were walking under the cliff, which was pretty cool, no access to the beaches or rocks.
Still no access to the beach (although you could probably bush bash if you wanted).
Looking back.
At this stage the cliff face is quite close interesting to see the layers in the sandstone.
Heading back up to the cliff top and the approach to Castle Cove Lookout (and where the actual Great Ocean Road can be accessed.
Past the Castle Cove Lookout (too many tourists taking photos which weren’t half as good as the photos we’d taken). We walked about 50m further on the track and came upon a casuarina grove so we stopped in the shade for lunch.
There was then a section with lots of small coves before we headed into a eucalyptus forest.
A strange rock formation.
We then walked into the forest section, about 2k of track and I have to say that this section was one of the nicest in the whole walk.
Stunning weather eh?
So nice that the track wasn’t through the coastal vegetation, am still looking for koalas, really thought I’d spot one in this section, but nope, no koalas.
We then came upon a grass tree “forest” (Xanthorrhoea).
Quickly followed by a boot washing station. There were others on the walk, but this one was in a specific area, to stop the spread of Cinnamon Fungus (Phytophthora cinnamon – try saying that 3 times!).
Cinnamon Fungus is a microscopic soil disease which easily spreads and attacks and rots a plants root system causing the plants to die – there is no known cure. Grass trees are particularly susceptible. I’ve seen grass trees in a number of areas where the tree is dead, so am wondering if the fungus is in other areas that I’ve been in.
The track we were now walking through was all board walk (so as not to walk on the soil), and was also going through 2 areas marked on our map as “quarries” this is one of the spots shown as a quarry.
And this is another section. I’ve tried to Google what the quarries were for (there’s a fire trail with a locked gate up to this “quarry). Have reached out to the Otway Historical Society but not holding my breath for a response.
Still in the contaminated area.
We’re past the contaminated area and have passed the second boot washing station. Lots of health grass trees, but there were the occasional dead ones.
Shortly after the boot washing station, right on the side of the track I spotted this terrestrial orchid, a Grass Trigger-plant (Stylidium graminifollum). I was so excited, hadn’t expected terrestrial orchids at this time of year. I spotted one more, so doesn’t appear that they are that common, the stalk (terrestrial orchids don’t have a lot of leaves) was about 50cm tall. A highlight of the trip!
And then we came across what looks like “white reindeer moss” but an Australian variety (as we don’t have reindeers lol).
The range was about 7sqm so there was a lot of it, but didn’t see any more of it on the parts of the walk that we did.
We’re out of the eucalyptus forest now and heading down towards Johanna Beach.
And about to walk through a cassurina forest.
Johanna Beach. The beach is 2k long, and there is no option to take a non-beach route. We’ve been warned that there is a Johanna River crossing and to be prepared to get wet feet but fortunately it is low tide, so the river was only ankle deep, just had to take off my shoes (the others didn’t have to as they’re wearing boots and if they are quick they wont get water into them).
The beach from the river, about 1.5k of sand walking (not going to be pleasant).
I figured that if I walked in other’s footsteps it wouldn’t be so bad, but it was still tedious. The person in the distance is sitting on a small chair. We’d run into him over the course of the day, plus the 4 Scouts that he was “keeping an eye on”, they were doing the obligatory 30k overnight walk that they needed to do to move up to Venturer Scouts. He was a little frustrated as they were spending a lot of time on their mobile phones LOL. He’s waiting for them to catch up to him.
14k – 5.43 hours – My favourite section of the track, so much diversity!
We’d let Mark (Walk91) know we’d arrived at the “text-in” spot which meant that when we arrived at Johanna Beach, the van was waiting for us. The driver then drove about a k to our accommodation, Johanna Seaside, where we were going to stay in the Farm House. This was amazing 4 bedrooms (so we each had our own room), great kitchen and hot shower! We were in “accommodation heaven”!
Day 6 – 30 March – Milanesia Beach to The Gables (changed to Moonlight Head)
The Guide: “Includes extensive staircase ascents and descents, which some walkers may find difficult (18.5k or 7 hours)”. Harder than expected “not to be repeated in a hurry”(Peter O). By the time we got to a possible exit point after 14k, we opted out, this day was punishing, more steps and hills than we could count. By the time we got to the last hill I was cursing! Peter and I did a rough check and figured there were at least 12 hills and in all we probably only ascended 580m – but it felt like 5,000m. Far too many hills!!!
Rather than walk from Johanna Beach to The Gables, Mark suggested that we avoid the “Old Coach/Hiders Access and Milanesia Track” which looked like roughly 9k of vehicle track – that was the best suggestion I’d heard yet, the thought of walking 9k of road was horrifying to me and as we’d already been told that this was the “hardest” section of the GOW, we were definitely taking up his suggestion.
Where we were dropped off at the locked gate where, interestingly, there were two vehicles parked inside the locked gate. We’d find out why once we got to Milanesia Beach. It was a cruisy 1.5k down to the beach.
View of the beach, and obvious vehicle tracks down the fire trail.
Milanesia Beach, before we got to the beach we noticed on the right of the track up a small valley was a beach house, and a 4wd vehicle, like a golf buggy, that must have been used to transport a family and their food for a holiday on the beach.
We had a 300m beach walk, lovely spot to have a family holiday. Must be private though as I couldn’t find accommodation to hire at Milanesia Beach for hire.
We now back on the GOW track, this was the start of our “up again and down again”. this “hill seemed to last forever but it was a mere 100m in elevation.
Looking back at the start of the track from the beach.
And once we got up to the top, it was down again as we had to cross a creek.
If you look closely in the photo above, for about 10k, the sides of the track were infested with blackberries. For the first 2k, we were helping ourselves to the berries (as was everyone else cause the “low hanging” berries had been eaten and I couldn’t reach very many of the ripe ones LOL). Eventually though I got sick of picking them – probably coincided with me being “over” the climbs!
View from the top, in the distance is a headland, that’s where I went down to see Rainbow Falls.
View of Milanesia Beach.
Another hill with rock steps.
Section of the track which was right on the edge of the cliff, I wonder how long this railing has been in place, maybe since its opening in 2006.
The track railing was followed by steps down (one of the many stepped sections).
And then steps up, this section of steps was about 75m long.
I think this is where we took a side trip to Ryans Den campground (only 8 sites available), we made a side trip into the campground to check it out and have lunch. Very good lookout at this campsite
Sometimes there were parts of the track dappled in shade which was great because it was very hot.
I think that up ahead is Moonlight Head, which is roughly where we’d exit the GOW track, still a ways to go.
As we were relatively close to The Apostles, I was looking out for the “lost Apostle”, so when I spotted this rock formation from the track, I thought that I’d found it (one can only hope).
The other unusual rock formation I found is this one, looks a bit like Gandalf. I believe it’s called “the submarine”, but I can only guess.
There wasn’t much to photograph at this stage, so it was basically a slog towards the Parkers Access Road where we were going to be picked up at “the style”. I cannot imagine how it would be walking from Milanesia Beach to The Gable where we were supposed to walk to. Very happy with the change. Despite the difficulty of the non-stop up and down, most of the walk was quite pretty.
14.5k – 6.20 hours – Punishing! As I said, at least 12 hills and in all we probably only ascended 580m – but it felt like 5,000m. If you camped at Ryans Den, it wouldn’t have been so bad, but I guess if you were camping and started at Johanna Beach you’d have to walk that God-awful 9k of road!
We were then taken back to the Farmhouse, and a lovely hot shower and tasty dinner. So, our last day is coming up – and The Apostles, what I’d been anticipating for the whole trip. Watch this space.
Banner (walking along Johanna Beach) & Thumbnail – chosen by my Granddaughter Audrey, thanks for helping out Audrey!